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a Comprehensive Guide to

the sartorial details

Welcome to our Sartorial Details Guide, your insider look at the craftsmanship behind the handmade, luxury sartorial menswear. Each product page on Sartorialista includes a detailed analysis of the elements that define the luxury suits and jackets. This guide delves into the essential components—from robust full canvas constructions to the artistry of handmade buttonholes and Neapolitan details. Whether you're a seasoned connoisseur or just beginning to explore the world of high-end tailoring, discover the craftsmanship that renders every garment uniquely sophisticated and enduring.


Full Canvas

The backbone of a tailored jacket or coat is its interlining, which provides essential shape and structure. Crafted from materials such as horsehair, wool, mohair, or camel hair, a full canvas interlining is often hand-stitched between the jacket's inner and outer layers. This 'floating' technique enhances the garment’s flexibility and, over time, molds to the wearer’s body, offering a naturally tailored appearance.


Unconstructed jackets forego traditional rigid interlinings, resulting in a lighter, more relaxed garment that closely follows the body's natural contours. This style is particularly favored for its comfort and casual elegance, making it ideal for informal settings


Fully Lined

Complete lining offers additional structure and opacity, protecting the outer fabric and smoothing the garment's fit against the body. It is commonly used in formal wear for a luxurious feel and increased warmth.

Half Lined

This lining style extends only partway down the back of the jacket, reducing weight and increasing breathability while maintaining form where it’s most needed. It's a practical choice for moderate weather.


Optimal for warm climates or the summer season, unlined suits are supremely breathable and lightweight. The absence of lining allows for a relaxed fit and casual, contemporary aesthetics.

Shoulder Types

La Spalla Camicia

Originating from Neapolitan tailoring, this 'shirt sleeve' shoulder features gentle shirring at the sleeve head, providing a soft, unstructured silhouette that enhances movement.

Con Rollino

The puckered con rollino shoulder, unpuckered and subtly padded, lends the jacket a robust, distinctly masculine silhouette.

Soft Shoulders

With minimal padding, soft shoulders offer a natural, unimposing look that complements the wearer’s body shape, ideal for casual and semi-formal jackets.

Roman Style Shoulders

Inspired by military and equestrian influences, Roman style shoulders blend the structured British look with Italian flair, creating a voluminous, body-conscious silhouette.

Roped Shoulders

Roped shoulders feature a pronounced ridge at the sleeve attachment, creating a bold, imposing shoulder line typical of classic British tailoring.


The raglan shoulder design extends the sleeve seamlessly from the collar, eliminating the shoulder seam for a sleek, fluid line that adds a sporty elegance to the garment.

Chest Pockets

Rounded Welt

Reflecting the natural roll of the lapel, these pockets add a dynamic, organic touch to the suit's front, contrasting sharply with the flat, angular pockets of more utilitarian designs.


Italian for 'little boat', this pocket style mimics a sailboat’s bow, tilted slightly upward, lending a subtle, stylish flair to the suit’s chest area.


Casual and functional, patch pockets are often seen on less formal jackets and blazers, adding a utilitarian charm.

Quintessential Neapolitan Detail

Pick Stitching - Doppio Impuntura

This double pick stitching is not only time-consuming but also a mark of high craftsmanship, subtly enhancing the garment’s edges with visible handwork.

Lapel Types

Peak Lapel

Highly formal, often seen on double-breasted jackets or tuxedos, emphasizing a broad shoulder line.

Notch Lapel

The most versatile and commonly found on single-breasted suit jackets, suitable for business and social settings.

Low Gorge Notch Lapel

Featuring a lower notch that offers a subtle throwback to vintage styles, adding a unique character to modern jackets.

Shawl Lapel

Smooth and rounded, the shawl lapel is synonymous with formal wear, particularly dinner jackets, exuding elegance and sophistication.

Lapel Buttonhole Types

Classic Handmade

Crafted with a series of knotted purl stitches, classic handmade buttonholes are robust and distinctly attractive, reflecting the artisan's skill.


Preferred by Neapolitan tailors, this buttonhole is shorter and thicker with a distinctive wide-end opening, enhancing the garment's handmade appeal.


Known as ‘Asola Lucida’, the Milanese buttonhole is crafted with a tightly wound gimp thread, showcasing meticulous craftsmanship ideal for a polished, refined look.

Long Milanese

An elongated version of the Milanese, this buttonhole requires even more precision and time, making it a testament to the tailor’s expertise.

Front and Sleeves Buttonhole Types

Handmade Buttonholes

Obviously, a sartorialist's preferred type; Each handmade buttonhole is a testament to the tailor’s attention to detail, requiring significant skill and patience.

Machine Made Buttonholes

More uniform and less distinctive than their handmade counterparts, these are commonly found on modern-produced garments.

Imitation Buttonholes

These are initially sewn shut but can be opened by a tailor to adjust fit or style, offering versatility.

Unique Buttonholes

Some tailors introduce signature styles, such as Tom Ford's larger fifth buttonhole or Brunello Cucinelli's diagonally placed buttonholes, adding a personal touch.

Button Types


Durable and aesthetically pleasing, horn buttons add a touch of natural elegance to any suit.

Mother of Pearl

These shimmering buttons are known for their unique luster and refinement, ideal for high-end garments.

Metal (Gold, Silver)

Historically linked to military uniforms, metal buttons now imbue suits with a sense of luxury and status.


Often featuring a cross-stitch detail, leather buttons bring a rustic, durable charm to casual jackets.


Crafted from tightly woven silk threads, these buttons add a subtle luster and elegance, ideal for formal wear and enhancing the sophistication of suits and evening jackets.

Button Placement


Buttons are spaced evenly, ensuring a clean look that suits most styles.


Often seen in Italian tailoring, kissing buttons slightly overlap, adding a touch of sophistication.


1 Button Closure

Traditionally seen in formal evening wear, maintaining a clean vertical line when buttoned.

2 Button Closure

A standard that offers a balanced silhouette, suitable for most business and casual jackets.

2.5 Button Closure

A distinctive Neapolitan feature where the lapel elegantly rolls over an ornamental top button, known for its stylish lapel drape.

3 Button Closure

Provides a higher closure point, ideal for a more conservative or vintage look.

Double Breasted Closure

Originally casual wear, it has evolved into a symbol of sartorial elegance with a structured, nautical flair.

Neapolitan Double Breasted Closure

Featuring a flexible buttoning arrangement, this style allows either of two prominent buttons to be fastened, adapting to the wearer’s preference.


Classic Darts

Typically located at the front and back of the jacket, these help create a tapered waist, enhancing the garment’s fit.

Neapolitan Darts

Known as 'mezzo punto riprese', these are strategically placed to slim the jacket’s silhouette, sometimes extending through the pocket for added intricacy.

Cuff Types

Standard Sleeve (Doctor Sleeve)

Often referred to as the "doctor sleeve" due to its historical association with physicians' coats, which needed to be easily rolled up for examinations. This sleeve style is straight and features a series of buttons at the cuff, allowing for simple adjustment and a neat appearance.

Gauntlet Sleeve

Features an extended, overlapping cuff originally designed for military use to provide extra protection. The gauntlet sleeve adds a decorative touch and is adjustable, enhancing both functionality and style in formal jackets.

Pocket Types


The most formal option, jetted pockets offer a sleek, streamlined look, ideal for tuxedos and evening jackets.


A versatile choice that straddles the formal and casual divide, suitable for business suits and sport coats.


Casual and functional, patch pockets are often seen on less formal jackets and blazers, adding a utilitarian charm.

Tasca a Pignata Patch

A distinct Neapolitan version with a rounded bottom, resembling the shape of a traditional cooking pot.

Bellows Patch Pockets

These expandable pockets are practical and stylistically distinctive, resembling an accordion.

Ticket Pocket

A small, additional pocket above the standard side pocket, traditionally used for storing coins or tickets, now adds a classic touch to modern suits.

Vent Types

Single (Center) Vent

Offers mobility and a traditional look, commonly found in American-style (Tom Ford) suit jackets.

Double (Side) Vents

Provide better access to trouser pockets and a slimming effect, favored in tailored British suits.

No Vent

Delivers a sleek silhouette with a modern appeal, often seen in formal and fashion-forward styles.

Trousers Pocket Types

Side Pockets

Also known as 'slash' pockets, these are angled for ease of access, blending functionality with style.

Frogmouth Pocket

Characterized by its horizontal entry, this pocket type offers a clean, tailored look, enhancing the trousers' sleek silhouette.

Trousers Waistband Types

Standard Waistband

The typical waistband found on most trousers, equipped with belt loops and a flat front or pleated design, catering to both classic and modern styles.

Side Adjusters

These provide a customizable fit without the need for a belt, offering a clean and sophisticated appearance. Side tabs are particularly common in bespoke tailoring and refined business wear.

Extended Waistband

Features a wider band that wraps around and fastens with a button, providing extra support and a smoother front, ideal for a tailored, polished look in trousers.

Gurkha Closure

Features a distinctive, overlapping waistband with a buckled belt, adding a vintage military flair and robust adjustment to tailored trousers.

Trousers Front Types

Flat Front

Offers a clean, streamlined look with no pleats. It's a modern choice that enhances the silhouette, suitable for both formal and casual settings.

Pleated front

Front pleats allow for more room and comfort around the hips and thighs. They can be single or double, with double pleats offering a more traditional look.


Gun Flap

Originally designed for military use, the gun flap is now a stylish feature on many overcoats, providing both function and fashion.


Used to cinch the waist for a fitted look, the belt on an overcoat enhances both its functionality and its style.

Martingale Belt

A half-belt at the back of the coat, the martingale provides historical charm and practical utility, helping to adjust the coat's fit while retaining a clean silhouette.