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Raw Materials

The construction of a sartorial item is considered the skeleton and the fabric the soul. Together they make the sartorial artwork alive..

Learn more about the most frequently used materials within the luxury sartorial industry

MATERIALS A-Z

south america

alpaca

Alpaca's natural fibres are considered top-of-the-range, of very high quality and with an unparalleled softness. Alpaca wool is 7 times more resistant than sheep's wool and has an uncontrollable thermal insulation capacity. 

Alpacas can be found throughout most of South America. They typically live in temperate conditions in the mountains with high altitudes.There are different kinds of alpaca fibers: the ‘adult’ one, and the baby alpaca fiber. The baby alpaca fiber is the thinnest, with a thickness of between 18 and 22 micron, and is the softest of all.

ASIA & SOUTH AMERICA

bamboo

The fully vegan alternative to wool Bamboo belongs to the grass family of plants and can grow up to 910mm in a single day. This makes it efficient and is considered as more sustainable: it uses 1/3 less water to grow - compared to cotton - and is a self-replenishing resource. Also, it’s stronger and softer than cotton.

It is native to tropical, sub-tropical, and temperate climates and is most common in Asia and South America - though it also grows in parts of Australia, Africa, and in the southern United States. Bamboo happens to make an excellent fabric for tailoring.

TURKEY, CHINA, SIBERIA & MONGOLIA

camel

Camel fabric is made using hairs from the Bactrian camel. They live primarily in rocky deserts in Asia between Turkey, China, and Siberia, with the greatest populations in the Mongol Steppes region. Temperatures in these deserts can become searingly hot in summer but can also drop to –30 C in winter. These animals have therefore developed special adaptations to allow them to survive in such a brutal environment. In other words, camel hair will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. Camel hair is mainly used for high-grade overcoat fabrics and knitwear.

MONGOLIA, CHINA & IRAN

cashmere

Fabric made of cashmere is warm and comfortable to the wearer, and it has excellent draping qualities and soft texture. Cashmere is used mainly for fine coat, dress and suit fabrics and for high-quality knitwear and hosiery. The major producers of cashmere are China, Mongolia, and Iran. 

It’s finer than regular sheep’s wool and often chosen for luxury apparel. Cashmere is considered to be premium yarn because of its scarcity. This is due to the fact that the collection of the fibers must be done by hand during spring molting season, resulting in a relatively small yield. It takes at least 3 cashmere goats to produce enough fiber in a year to create a clothing item such as a sweater.

UNITED STATES, AFRICA, EGYPT & INDIA

cotton

Approximately 75 percent of the world’s clothing products contain at least some amount of cotton. Cotton fabric is derived from the fibers surrounding the seeds of cotton plants, which emerge in a round, fluffy formation once the seeds are mature. It has both functional and aesthetic properties. This fabric has a high tensile strength, is elastic and absorbent 

The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, Egypt and India. Egyptian cotton is one of the longest and most luxurious vartities of cotton in existence. Giza 45 cotton, for instance, is over 45 millimeters (1.77 inches) long, which makes it one of the longest and most luxurious varieties of cotton in existence.

worldwide

leather

Leather is a strong, flexible and durable material obtained from the tanning, or chemical treatment, of animal skins and hides. The most common leathers come from cows, sheep, goats, horses, buffalo, pigs and hogs, and aquatic animals such as seals and alligators.

The leather is used of a multitude of products. These include shoes, outer apparel, belts, suede products, gloves, luggage and bags. One of the most luxurious leather used within sartorial menswear is Alligator due to the fact that it's very soft and durable.

EUROPE, CHINA & UNITED STATES

linen

Linen is a flax-based textile. Garments made of linen are desirable in hot and humid climates; the fabric feels cool. It is also breathable and is stronger and more lustrous than cotton. The more it is washed, the softer it gets.

World Linen's main source for flax fiber consists are France, The Netherlands and Belgium. Other countries known for linen production include China, Italy, Ireland, and even the U.S. which uses its crops for flaxseed oil.

AUSTRALIA & NEW ZEALAND

merino

Merino wool is much finer and softer than regular wool. It is grown by Merino sheep that graze the highlands of Australia and New Zealand. Since the 12th century these sheeps have developed the softest and finest fleece. They can withstand temperatures ranging from -20 C° up to +35 C. Therefore, Merino wool is considered thermo regulating. The breathing qualities of the fabric hold great advantages when it comes to comfort, it is perfect for all-year-round clothing.

TURKEY, ASIA & THE MIDDLE EAST

mohair

Mohair - wool - is a fabric or yarn made from the hair of the Angora goat. Both durable and resilient, mohair is notable for its high luster and sheen, and is often used in fiber blends to add these qualities to a textile. These attributes have led to name mohair as the "diamond fiber". It is popular due to its high compatibility with most types of dyes. Mohair is also much more elastic than most types of wool, it is not very flammable, and it is crease-resistant.

Angora goats evolved into their current form in Tibet, and they gradually migrated to Turkey. Records of mohair wool in England date back to the eighth century, which indicates that this type of fabric has been widely traded throughout Europe, Asia, and the Middle East.

CHINA & INDIA

silk

Silk is a fine continuous protein fiber produced by various insect larvae usually to form their cocoons. It is known for its luster, shine, strength, and durability, and it has a long trading history across the world.

The main silk producing countries are China and India. Silk was originally developed in ancient China before spreading across the globe. Most of the world’s silk is made by the Bombyx mori, a domestic silkworm who feeds almost exclusively on mulberry leaves.

SOUTH AMERICA

Vicuña

The softest wool in the world comes from vicuña, the national animal of Peru. This camelid lives in the high alpine areas of the Andes. Due to its fine fibers, vicuña is extremely light and soft, yet warm and insulating. Each vicuña garment is a piece of art and a true pleasure to wear.

A vicuña only produces 200 grams of fiber every three years - making difficult to get several meters of this fabric. Moreover, its hair, very short and fine, it is difficult to spin. Hence vicuña is considered the the most expensive textile in the world - making it popular among the coinnaseurs.

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Fabric abbreviations

To streamline communication and ensure precision in fabric selection, a standardized set of abbreviations is commonly used. These abbreviations help tailors, designers, and manufacturers quickly identify and differentiate between various types of fibers and materials. Below is a comprehensive list of fabrics and their common abbreviations used in the tailoring and textile industry. These abbreviations can often be found on the composition labels inside sartorial garments, providing valuable information about the materials used.

Animal Fibers

  1. WO - Wool
  2. WS - Cashmere
  3. WM - Mohair
  4. SE - Silk
  5. CA - Alpaca
  6. CY - Coyote
  7. WG - Angora Goat
  8. WK - Camel Hair
  9. WB - Beaver
  10. WQ - Vicuna
  11. WY - Yak
  12. HF - Horsehair
  13. QZ - Quiviut (Musk Ox wool)
  14. SZ - Spider Silk
  15. BU - Buffalo

Natural Plant Fibers

  1. CO - Cotton
  2. LI - Linen
  3. HE - Hemp
  4. RA - Ramie
  5. JF - Flax
  6. MB - Bamboo
  7. JH - Jute
  8. KP - Kapok
  9. SI - Sisal
  10. BC - Banana Fiber

Semi-Synthetic Fibers

  1. VI or CV- Viscose/Rayon (from wood pulp)
  2. MD - Modal (from beech tree pulp)
  3. CU - Cupro (from cotton waste)
  4. TA - Triacetate
  5. LY - Lyocell (from wood pulp)

Synthetic Fibers

  1. PA - Polyamide/Nylon
  2. PL - Polyester
  3. PU - Polyurethane
  4. EA - Elastane/Spandex
  5. AC - Acrylic
  6. CL - Chlorofiber