The
Sartorial Wedding Guide
Every wedding tells a story and so does your attire. Whether you’re the groom, a guest, or part of the wedding party, your choice of suit reflects the tone of the celebration and your own sense of refinement.
At Sartorialista, we curate preloved & vintage luxury tailoring from the world’s most prestigious houses - Cesare Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Caruso, Tom Ford, and more - ensuring every man can dress with distinction for life’s most memorable moments.
Explore our complete guide to wedding and formalwear: styles, colours, traditions, and modern interpretations.
Traditional Daytime Formalwear
Morning Dress
The most formal attire for a daytime wedding, morning dress (or jacquet) is the epitome of ceremony and tradition. It’s still the standard at royal and aristocratic weddings and remains the purest expression of classic elegance.
Key Components:
- Coat: Black or charcoal grey morning coat with a cutaway front and tails.
- Trousers: Grey striped or houndstooth wool trousers.
- Waistcoat: Dove grey, buff, or pastel tone for subtle contrast.
- Shirt: White with a spread or cutaway collar.
- Tie: Pure silk in a discreet pattern; grenadine or repp weave preferred.
- Shoes: Black Oxfords, polished to perfection.
Heritage Note: Morning dress originates from 19th-century equestrian attire, evolving into formal daywear worn at weddings, races, and official ceremonies.
Contemporary Wedding Elegance
The Lounge Suit
For most modern weddings, the lounge suit has become the standard. It strikes the ideal balance between formality and comfort while leaving room for personal style.
Attire Guidelines:
- Suit: Two- or three-piece in navy, grey, or beige.
- Fabric: Wool, tropical wool, or lightweight blends depending on season.
- Style Tip: A double-breasted suit adds structure and presence; a three-piece introduces subtle formality.
For the Groom: A waistcoat in a slightly contrasting shade, such as light grey or ivory, distinguishes the groom from the guests without appearing ostentatious.
Destination & Summer Weddings
When the ceremony moves to the coast, countryside, or a sun-soaked villa, formality relaxes but taste remains.
Recommended Styles:
- Fabric: Linen, cotton, or unstructured tropical wool.
- Colours: Light beige, sand, cream, or powder blue.
- Footwear: Loafers, espadrilles, or suede derbies for a soft aesthetic.
- Details: Consider a linen pocket square or silk knitted tie for texture.
Styling Insight: A lightly wrinkled linen suit with a white shirt captures that effortless Italian Riviera nonchalance, elegant yet relaxed.
Cultural & Themed Weddings
A gentleman always respects the cultural or aesthetic spirit of the celebration while maintaining a refined standard of dress.
- Italian Wedding: Mid-blue or navy wool suit, white shirt, silk tie. Timeless sprezzatura.
- French Wedding: Subtle elegance; charcoal or taupe tones, often sans tie for contemporary chic.
- Asian Wedding: Deep jewel tones — burgundy, emerald, or sapphire, often in silk or brocade.
- Black Tie Optional: Dark navy or black suit with refined accessories, ideal when full eveningwear isn’t required.
Eveningwear
Black Tie & Beyond
As the celebration transitions into evening, formality reaches its peak. The dinner jacket, or tuxedo, remains the symbol of timeless evening sophistication.
Black Tie Essentials:
- Jacket: Single- or double-breasted tuxedo in black or midnight blue barathea wool, with silk peak or shawl lapels.
- Trousers: Without belt loops, with a silk braid on the outseam.
- Shirt: White with a pleated or marcella front and turn-down collar.
- Bow Tie: Black silk, self-tied.
- Shoes: Patent leather Oxfords or opera pumps.
Contemporary Twist: Velvet dinner jackets in rich tones like forest green, burgundy, or midnight blue bring character and individuality, especially suited for festive evening receptions.
Choosing the Right
Colour Palette
Your wedding palette defines the atmosphere of the day. Choose tones and fabrics that complement the season, the setting, and the formality of the event. Daytime weddings call for lighter shades, while evening receptions benefit from deeper, richer hues.
- Spring; Light grey, taupe, and sky blue tones work beautifully in the fresh light of the season. Opt for linen or wool-silk blends, breathable fabrics that maintain an elegant drape. A pastel tie or pocket square completes the look without overpowering it.
- Summer; Cream, beige, and powder blue reflect light beautifully and feel effortless in the heat. Lightweight cotton or linen suits are ideal, especially for outdoor or destination weddings. A crisp white shirt and suede loafers add to the relaxed sophistication.
- Autumn; Camel, olive, and tobacco tones create warmth and depth, perfect for rustic or countryside weddings. Choose fabrics with texture, such as flannel or soft cashmere blends. Brown shoes and earth-toned accessories complement the season’s character.
- Winter; Charcoal, midnight blue, and black convey understated strength and refinement. Heavier wool, mohair, or twill fabrics provide both comfort and structure. A velvet tie or silk boutonnière adds a subtle touch of luxury for the colder months.
Style Tip: Match the season’s natural atmosphere; linen and pastel tones for warm days, flannel and darker hues for winter formality. For the groom, a contrasting waistcoat or tie in a complementary tone can create a distinguished yet harmonious look.
The Finishing Touches
Accessories
A man’s refinement lies in the details.
- Pocket Square: White linen for formality; silk for flair.
- Tie: Pure silk grenadine, satin, or shantung.
- Shoes: Well-polished black Oxfords or refined loafers depending on dress code.
- Cufflinks: Silver, mother-of-pearl, or enamel for understated luxury.
- Boutonnière: A single flower pinned to the left lapel - a symbol of celebration.
The Finishing Touches
A Misconception About
Custom-Made
Many assume that a made-to-measure wedding suit is the pinnacle of elegance, but it’s not always the case.
While these ateliers often present an impressive selection of fabrics, the production is frequently outsourced overseas.
Despite the fine cloth, the craftsmanship rarely matches the work of Italian tailors who have been perfecting their art for generations.
A handmade Cesare Attolini jacket, for example, is cut, stitched, and finished entirely in Naples by artisans who understand balance, proportion, and movement. The difference is visible the moment you put it on.
Respectfully said, it’s not about choosing between new or preloved, it’s about choosing excellence.
in the Amsterdam Showroom
Guidance from Experience
Over the years, I’ve had the privilege of helping many gentlemen prepare for weddings - their own, a close friend’s, or a formal event abroad.
Each time, the goal is the same: finding something unique, perfectly tailored, and ready to go.
Sometimes it’s a refined double-breasted Attolini suit for a groom, other times a navy Caruso for a last-minute destination ceremony.
Even if timing is tight, there’s always something special waiting, something that fits naturally and feels right.
I can also assist with alterations through my trusted external tailor to ensure the fit is flawless.