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Orazio Luciano & Ambrosi Grey Double-Breasted Prince of Wales Suit

48 IT / 38 US / Medium

Sale price€998 Regular price€3.800

In stock, ready to ship
Orazio Luciano & Ambrosi Grey Double-Breasted Prince of Wales Suit
Orazio Luciano & Ambrosi Grey Double-Breasted Prince of Wales Suit Sale price€998 Regular price€3.800
DISCOVER THE  ↓
FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Discover the

Sartorial Details

FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

La Spalla Camicia

Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.

Neapolitan Buttonhole

The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.

Double Breasted Closure

Contrary to popular belief, the double-breasted jacket originated as casual wear in the early 19th century, also known as the reefer jacket. It was considered very casual and was worn by people at sporting and national events.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.

Neapolitan Darts

Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes

Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.

Jetted Pockets

The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.

the details of

the trousers

Double Pleated Front

Double-pleat trousers are all about classic elegance. They were a staple in the 1930s and 1940s, an era known for its fuller, more comfortable styles. With two pleats, these pants provide extra room, especially around the hips and thighs, making them great for formal settings. They bring to mind the sophisticated styles of Hollywood icons like Cary Grant, who wore them with effortless charm. Even though slimmer fits have become more popular, double pleats remain appealing for those who appreciate traditional tailoring and timeless style.

Side Adjusters

Side adjusters are a stylish alternative to belts, offering a clean look without the need for additional accessories. These adjusters are typically small buckles or tabs located on each side of the waistband, allowing you to tighten or loosen the trousers for a perfect fit. Popular in bespoke tailoring and high-end menswear, side adjusters provide a sleek and polished appearance. They are particularly favored in formal and semi-formal settings, as they maintain the silhouette of the trousers without the bulk of a belt.

Turn-Up (Cuffed) Hem

The turn-up hem, or cuffed hem, is a classic style where the fabric at the bottom of the trousers is folded outward to create a visible cuff. This style originated with Edward VII in the late 19th century, who had his trousers tailored with cuffs to prevent them from getting muddy, sparking a trend among the fashionable elite. In the 1920s and 1930s, turn-ups became a symbol of wealth and sophistication, as having extra fabric was seen as a luxury. This association continued after World War II when wearing turn-ups subtly indicated affluence in an era of fabric rationing. Today, turn-up hems are a nod to their historical roots, offering a touch of classic elegance and enhancing the overall appearance of formal and tailored trousers.

size

48 IT / 38 US / Medium

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