Ermenegildo Zegna Blue Trofeo Jacket
50 IT / 40 US / Large
This style is instantly recognizable by connoisseurs; notch lapels, milanese buttonhole, soft shoulders and rounded pattern below the profile of the jacket which accentuates a slim waist. Trofeo™ wool is a superfine Australian Merino wool characterised by longer and more elastic fibers that make garments smoother and more comfortable. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
By the time a Ermenegildo Zegna garment ends up hanging in an enthusiasts wardrobe, more than 500 hands will have touched it. They start their work by shearing the wool, weaving it, bundling it, dyeing it, knitting it, ironing it, cutting it, sewing it, ironing it again (and again). In Trivero, Piedmont, Zegna turns wool into cloth, and then sends it to the artisanal suit factory at Stabio, on the Swiss side of the Italian border, where the cloth becomes a tailored garment. What is thought to be simple is actually difficult, and what is thought to be done by machine is basically done by people, at a sophisticated level.
Composition: 100% Trofeo™ wool
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Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
A roped shoulder - or sleeve - head describes the bumped shape or ridge of the sleeve’s attachment to the shoulder. The higher it is, the more imposing the shoulder line appears. This can often be found in iconic British tailoring.
Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.
The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.
Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket
Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.
The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Horn buttons are prized for their quality. They are made with the finest genuine horn material, improving the appearance of the suit. And because they are so strong, you don't have to worry about them cracking or breaking.
The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.