Ermenegildo Zegna Blue Trofeo Jacket

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

Roped Shoulders

A roped shoulder - or sleeve - head describes the bumped shape or ridge of the sleeve’s attachment to the shoulder. The higher it is, the more imposing the shoulder line appears. This can often be found in iconic British tailoring.

Handmade Buttonhole

Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.

Two-Button Closure

The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.

Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket

Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Horn Buttons

Horn buttons are prized for their quality. They are made with the finest genuine horn material, improving the appearance of the suit. And because they are so strong, you don't have to worry about them cracking or breaking.

Jetted Pockets

The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.