Kiton Double Breasted Jacket
54 IT / 44 US / Extra Large
Navy double-breasted jacket in soft, Super 110’s virgin wool with a birdseye pattern. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
Finely crafted textiles have always been a cornerstone at Kiton: in their own wool mill in Biella, Italy. The deconstructed nature of the garment and the use of soft yarn offer an authentic, personal experience of refined comfort that combines allure and freedom of movement. In a journey of sartorial exploration and evolution that redefines menswear in the name of essentialism, every Kiton jacket is a work of fine design. Entirely cut and constructed by hand in Naples, Kiton’s 25 master craftsmen have carried out 1,800 steps to create this architectural piece.
Composition: 100% S110's Wool
Color: Navy Blue
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Right of return 14 days. The Return is at the customer’s charge.
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Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
La Spalla Camicia
Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.
Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.
Neapolitan Double Breasted Closure
There are many types of double-breasted jackets, though the most popular is the 6×2 button configuration – six buttons in two rows. The rule of thumb is that only one button should be closed and leaving the other one alone. Most commonly the middle button is closed and the lower button remains open. That being said, a Neapolitan double breasted jacket is cut in a way both the middle or lower button can be closed. Then again, button the lower button and leave the middle one alone. One feature of the double-breasted jacket that many may not pay attention to, is the presence of an inner button that isn’t seen. This button should be closed at all times as it helps to keep the jacket laying on the body.
Barchetta Chest Pocket
The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.
Darts - Mezzo Punto Riprese
Kiton’s master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes
Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.
The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.