Orazio Luciano Double Breasted Suit
48 IT / 38 US / Medium
Chocolate brown double-breasted suit in soft flannel wool from Loro Piana with a chalk stripe pattern and wide peak lapels. The formal look with the eclectic slant embodies dandyism at its best - the tailor is known for the modern interpretation of the Neapolitan section. The masculine silhouette is skillfully worked out. The shoulders are perfectly accentuated, the waist flatteringly emphasized and the pants brought to a perfect length. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
From the cutting to the last ironing process, the tailors in the small factory of Orazio Luciano need more than 25 hours for the production of one single suit. The individual work steps are rigorously handmade in individual stations. From cutting to sewing the pockets, the lapel cut, the hand-sewn buttonholes, the fitting of the sleeves and, of course, the fitting of the lining.
Composition: 100% Wool Flannel by Loro Piana
Color: Chocolate Brown
Pattern: Chalk Stripe
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Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
La Spalla Camicia
Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.
The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.
Pick stitching: Doppio impuntura
The doppio impuntura or ‘double pick stitching’. It is made as a backstitch, which is a highly time consuming process that looks like a little dot on the surface of the fabric. The doppio impuntura runs throughout the sides of the lapel, collar, pockets and shoulder seam. As a visible detail of handwork, it can be seen as the ultimate touch of elegance.
Double Breasted Closure
Contrary to popular belief, the double-breasted jacket originated as casual wear in the early 19th century, also known as the reefer jacket. It was considered very casual and was worn by people at sporting and national events.
Barchetta Chest Pocket
The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.
Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes
Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.
Patch pockets, with their rugged functionality, were unsurprisingly adopted by the military for both shirts and jackets.