Orazio Luciano Double Breasted Suit

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

La Spalla Camicia

Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.

Neapolitan Buttonhole

The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.

Pleated Trousers

Sartorial folklore has it that the originator of the pleated trouser was a Danish man called Lars Larsen, a tailor of great renown who moved to Paris in the late 19th century to found his own atelier, which went on to become one of the most prestigious in the entire city. Mr Larsen is credited with inventing the open pleat (and some sources also say he was the first to introduce front darts on men’s jackets). They were originally added to provide extra room in the garment. They visually break up the expanse of cloth across the lap (a trick particularly beneficial to larger men), and give trousers a flattering crease line from waist to cuff.

Double Breasted Closure

Contrary to popular belief, the double-breasted jacket originated as casual wear in the early 19th century, also known as the reefer jacket. It was considered very casual and was worn by people at sporting and national events.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.

Neapolitan Darts

Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Unfinished Sleeve

Pre-owned, not loved - yet. The buttons have to be set and the buttonholes have to be created by your local tailor. The (horn) buttons are enclosed within the left inner pocket.

Flap Pockets

This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.