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Orazio Luciano Shepherd’s Check Jacket

50 IT / 40 US / Large

Sale price$1,326.00 Regular price$2,543.00

Grey single-breasted jacket in a soft silk, alpaca, wool, polyamide and cashmere blend with a gingham check pattern and wide notch lapels. The formal look with the eclectic slant embodies dandyism at its best -  the tailor is known for the modern interpretation of the Neapolitan section. The masculine silhouette is skillfully worked out. The shoulders are perfectly accentuated, the waist flatteringly emphasized and the pants brought to a perfect length. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.

From the cutting to the last ironing process, the tailors in the small factory of Orazio Luciano need more than 25 hours for the production of one single suit. The individual work steps are rigorously handmade in individual stations. From cutting to sewing the pockets, the lapel cut, the hand-sewn buttonholes, the fitting of the sleeves and, of course, the fitting of the lining.

Discover the

Sartorial Details

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

La Spalla Camicia

Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.

Neapolitan Buttonhole

The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.

Two-Button Closure

The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.

Neapolitan Darts

Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Unfinished Sleeve

Pre-owned, not loved - yet. The buttons have to be set and the buttonholes have to be created by your local tailor. The (horn) buttons are enclosed within the left inner pocket.

Patch Pocket

Patch pockets, with their rugged functionality, were unsurprisingly adopted by the military for both shirts and jackets. The lower patch pockets on a Neapolitan jacket are modeled after the tasca a pignata style, and when done in its purest form, are easily recognizable with a rounded-bottom and a unique shape

size

50 IT / 40 US / Large