Tom Ford Black Silk & Rayon Suit

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

Roped Shoulders

A roped shoulder - or sleeve - head describes the bumped shape or ridge of the sleeve’s attachment to the shoulder. The higher it is, the more imposing the shoulder line appears. This can often be found in iconic British tailoring.

Long Milanese Buttonhole

The elegant, longer brother of the Milanese. With its thin and extra long gimp cord inside, this is one of the most challenging buttonholes to make by hand. Even a highly skilled tailor will take about 20 minutes to finish it.

Two-Button Closure

The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta chest pocket is not only curved and blunted, as in the southern Italian style, but the corner is rounder right off.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Mother of Pearl Buttons

Mother of pearl buttons are iridescent buttons made from an inner layer of certain shells. Especially shells of oysters and mussels that contain nacre, the mineral substance that forms pearls. What makes these buttons so iconic is their inimitable pearly finish.

Ticket Pocket

The ticket pocket, also known as change pocket, has an old British history. At first it wasn’t even used to store a ticket, as the name indicates today. It became useful before the huge popularity of the railroad, as it was placed on the jackets of equestrians who needed quick access to coins at toll points. Allowing gentlemen to keep their jackets buttoned, this exterior pocket held cash in an extremely convenient way. Ticket pockets were a staple on men’s sturdy country suits before they adapted into the urban suits men wore to commute on a daily basis.