Tom Ford Navy Hopsack Jacket

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

unlined

Unlined suits are lighter and more breathable, making them ideal for warmer climates or during the summer months. Secondly, the absence of lining often allows for a more natural and relaxed fit, enhancing the overall comfort and mobility. Also, unlined suits tend to have a more casual and modern appearance, making them suitable for both formal and semi-formal occasions, providing versatility and value for your wardrobe.

Roped Shoulders

A roped shoulder - or sleeve - head describes the bumped shape or ridge of the sleeve’s attachment to the shoulder. The higher it is, the more imposing the shoulder line appears. This can often be found in iconic British tailoring.

Long Milanese Buttonhole

The elegant, longer brother of the Milanese. With its thin and extra long gimp cord inside, this is one of the most challenging buttonholes to make by hand. Even a highly skilled tailor will take about 20 minutes to finish it.

Two-Button Closure

The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta chest pocket is not only curved and blunted, as in the southern Italian style, but the corner is rounder right off.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Buttons and Buttonholes

5 functioning horn buttons at the end of the sleeve, with a larger 5th button opening - a quintessential Tom Ford Detail. Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.

Flap Pockets

This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.