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Brioni Anthracite Fine-Wool Roman-Style Windowpane Suit

54L IT / 44L US / Extra Large

Sale price€848 Regular price€5.300

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FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Discover the

Sartorial Details

FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

Roman Style Shoulders

Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. While the heavily structured, military-inspired suits with strong shoulders and stiff canvassing were fitting of English nobles, the staid style was not an adequate reflection of the Italian way of life. As Italian tailoring grew into its own, though, different styles began to develop. In Naples unstructured whimsical Neapolitan suiting took hold. In Rome, where Brioni was born, the style evolved more subtly. The structured British style was made more voluminous, body conscious, and free-flowing without losing too much of the signature Saville Row shape.

Handmade Buttonhole

Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.

Three-Button Closure

Originating from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the three-button suit closure evolved as a staple in menswear, striking a balance between the more casual two-button and the formal full-buttoned designs. This middle-ground choice quickly became favored for its versatility, offering a neat, elongated silhouette that stood synonymous with both business elegance and everyday sophistication. Over the years, its popularity has seen ebbs and flows, yet it remains a timeless classic in the annals of fashion history.

Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket

Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Brioni Anthracite Fine-Wool Roman-Style Windowpane Suit

Horn Buttons

Horn buttons are prized for their quality. They are made with the finest genuine horn material, improving the appearance of the suit. And because they are so strong, you don't have to worry about them cracking or breaking.

Flap Pockets

This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.

the details of

the trousers

Brioni Anthracite Fine-Wool Roman-Style Windowpane Suit

Double Pleated Front

Double-pleat trousers are all about classic elegance. They were a staple in the 1930s and 1940s, an era known for its fuller, more comfortable styles. With two pleats, these pants provide extra room, especially around the hips and thighs, making them great for formal settings. They bring to mind the sophisticated styles of Hollywood icons like Cary Grant, who wore them with effortless charm. Even though slimmer fits have become more popular, double pleats remain appealing for those who appreciate traditional tailoring and timeless style.

Belt Loops

Belt loops are the most common type of waistband found on trousers, providing the option to wear a belt for both style and practicality. Typically spaced evenly around the waistband, belt loops are a versatile feature that can accommodate a wide range of belt styles and sizes. This traditional waistband design is found in everything from casual jeans to formal dress pants, making it a timeless and adaptable option for any wardrobe. Belt loops offer the flexibility to customize your look while ensuring a secure fit.

Unhemmed (Raw) Hem

An unhemmed, or raw hem, on dress trousers refers to the unfinished bottom edge, allowing the wearer to have them tailored to their preferred length.

Brioni Anthracite Fine-Wool Roman-Style Windowpane Suit

size

54L IT / 44L US / Extra Large

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