Brioni Blue Velvet Smoking Jacket
48 IT / 38 US / Medium
The smoking jacket features peak lapels and is constructed from 100% cotton. It is designed with a single button closure and jetted pockets, which contribute to its sleek and elegant appearance. This combination of features, including the peak lapels and cotton fabric, gives the jacket a distinctive sartorial elegance. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
Each Brioni garment is crafted using the Brioni method, a custom process with 220 steps and more than 22 hours of workmanship.
Composition: 100% Cotton Velvet
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Right of return 14 days. The Return is at the customer’s charge.
Return on Consignment items is not possible.
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Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
Roman Style Shoulders
Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. While the heavily structured, military-inspired suits with strong shoulders and stiff canvassing were fitting of English nobles, the staid style was not an adequate reflection of the Italian way of life. As Italian tailoring grew into its own, though, different styles began to develop. In Naples unstructured whimsical Neapolitan suiting took hold. In Rome, where Brioni was born, the style evolved more subtly. The structured British style was made more voluminous, body conscious, and free-flowing without losing too much of the signature Saville Row shape.
Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.
Single Button Closure
Due to their roots in traditional eveningwear styles, one-button suit jackets are frequently tailored with a longer cut compared to other suit variations. By keeping the button fastened, a well-proportioned appearance is maintained. It is crucial to always button these jackets when standing.
Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket
Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.
The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Matching the silk details throughout the tuxedo
The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.