Brioni Dark Blue Brushed-Wool Checkered Brunico jacket
52 IT / 42 US / Large
Measurements
MeasurementsSee how we measure our sartorial items
Discover the customization possibilities by visiting our tailor alteration guide
General Note: While we inspect each item to ensure its quality, please note that minor imperfections may be present due to the preloved nature of the garments. We strive to represent every item accurately, but subtle signs of wear may sometimes go unnoticed. We appreciate your understanding and commitment to sustainable luxury.
Curator's Description
Curator's DescriptionDiscover the Brioni Dark Blue Brushed-Wool Checkered Brunico Jacket, a winter piece that demonstrates how much Brioni can accomplish within a completely classic framework. Brushed wool is one of the most tactile cloth finishes available to a tailor: the surface fibres are raised through a mechanical brushing process that produces a soft, slightly napped hand quite unlike the smooth face of a standard woollen, the result warmer to the touch and with a depth of colour that absorbs light rather than reflecting it. In dark blue with a check, the brushed surface gives the pattern a softness it would not have in a crisper cloth, the lines of the check settling into the fabric rather than sitting on top of it. The Brunico is one of Brioni's named fits, cut with the generous, composed proportions that suit the house's Roman sensibility: room through the chest and shoulder without excess, a silhouette that carries itself without demanding the body beneath conform to it. The soft Roman shoulder is the construction detail that makes Brioni immediately recognisable, a clean, lightly structured line that extends naturally from the neck without the hard edge of a Neapolitan spalla camicia or the heavy padding of a Milanese house. Notch lapels, flap pockets, full lining and dual vents complete a jacket that has been resolved at every point without a single concession to novelty.
Brioni was founded in Rome in 1945 and has dressed heads of state and cultural figures across eight decades, its authority resting on a combination of exceptional cloth sourcing, in-house tailoring of the highest order, and an understanding of proportion that remains distinctly Roman. The Brunico in dark blue brushed wool is Brioni at its most settled: a jacket that knows exactly what it is.
Materials
MaterialsComposition: 100% Wool
Color: Dark Blue
Pattern: Check
Shipping
• Complimentary shipping on orders over €200 (Netherlands), €500 (EU), and €1,000 (rest of world
• Orders below these thresholds are charged based on destination
• All items ship directly from Amsterdam, The Netherlands
• Customs duties and import fees outside the EU are the customer’s responsibility
Returns
EU customers have the right to withdraw within 14 days of delivery.
• Return shipping is at the customer’s expense
• Items must be returned unworn and in original condition
• Any use beyond indoor fitting may result in a diminished refund
Orders outside the European Union are exported goods and considered final sale (no returns).
Altered or tailored items are final sale.
Please review measurements and quality control comments carefully before ordering. As a small independent boutique we encourage thoughtful purchasing. For any questions, feel free to contact us before placing your order.
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Sartorial Details
Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
Roman Style Shoulders
Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. While the heavily structured, military-inspired suits with strong shoulders and stiff canvassing were fitting of English nobles, the staid style was not an adequate reflection of the Italian way of life. As Italian tailoring grew into its own, though, different styles began to develop. In Naples unstructured whimsical Neapolitan suiting took hold. In Rome, where Brioni was born, the style evolved more subtly. The structured British style was made more voluminous, body conscious, and free-flowing without losing too much of the signature Saville Row shape.
Handmade Buttonhole
Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.
Two-Button Closure
The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.
Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket
Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.
Darts
The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Mother of Pearl Buttons
Mother of pearl buttons are iridescent buttons made from an inner layer of certain shells. Especially shells of oysters and mussels that contain nacre, the mineral substance that forms pearls. What makes these buttons so iconic is their inimitable pearly finish.
Flap Pockets
This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.
size
52 IT / 42 US / Large
