Brioni Dark Green Vintage Donegal-Tweed Shooting Suit
54 IT / 44 US / Extra Large
Measurements
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Discover the customization possibilities by visiting our tailor alteration guide
General Note: While we inspect each item to ensure its quality, please note that minor imperfections may be present due to the preloved nature of the garments. We strive to represent every item accurately, but subtle signs of wear may sometimes go unnoticed. We appreciate your understanding and commitment to sustainable luxury.
Curator's Description
Curator's DescriptionDiscover the Brioni Dark Green Vintage Donegal Tweed Shooting Suit, originally sold by Ratti Boutique. Ratti has been among the most respected multi-brand luxury retailers in Italy since its founding in 1945, the Pesaro and Bologna boutique's selection of houses representing a considered edit of European tailoring at its highest level. A Brioni shooting suit passing through Ratti's selection carries that provenance alongside the Roman house that made it.
Donegal Tweed originates in County Donegal on Ireland's northwest coast, a cloth produced from locally sourced wool and characterised by the coloured neps woven throughout the ground, small tufts of contrasting fibre distributed through the weave that create the speckled surface the cloth is immediately recognisable for. Here the dark green ground carries white and orange neps, the two contrasting tones distributed across the surface in the uneven, organic manner specific to this cloth, the speckle giving the tweed a depth and liveliness that a plain cloth at the same colour would entirely lack. The dry, slightly rough hand of the tweed is as much a part of its identity as its appearance, the cloth carrying a weight and a texture that speaks to its working origins before any tailoring is considered.
That Brioni produced a shooting suit in Donegal Tweed makes this a collector's piece in the most direct sense. The Roman house has always been associated with the finest smooth-faced wools and the most formal expressions of the tailored suit, and a Norfolk-inspired shooting jacket in Irish tweed represents a departure from that identity significant enough that examples are genuinely rare. The jacket draws from the Norfolk tradition in its bellows pockets, the accordion pleat construction set into the side pockets expanding freely for the movement shooting demands, a welted chest pocket completing the front configuration. The jacket is fully lined, the Roman shoulder present beneath the tweed's rustic exterior. The trousers are cut straight with a double pleat at the rise and turn-ups at the hem, the generous construction in keeping with the suit's vintage proportions and country intentions.
A Brioni shooting suit in Donegal Tweed, sold through Ratti, is a specific and unrepeatable combination. It will not come around again.
Materials
MaterialsComposition: 100% Tweed Wool
Color: Dark Green (Undertone), White & Orange (Neps)
Pattern: Donegal
Shipping
• Complimentary shipping on orders over €200 (Netherlands), €500 (EU), and €1,000 (rest of world
• Orders below these thresholds are charged based on destination
• All items ship directly from Amsterdam, The Netherlands
• Customs duties and import fees outside the EU are the customer’s responsibility
Returns
EU customers have the right to withdraw within 14 days of delivery.
• Return shipping is at the customer’s expense
• Items must be returned unworn and in original condition
• Any use beyond indoor fitting may result in a diminished refund
Orders outside the European Union are exported goods and considered final sale (no returns).
Altered or tailored items are final sale.
Please review measurements and quality control comments carefully before ordering. As a small independent boutique we encourage thoughtful purchasing. For any questions, feel free to contact us before placing your order.
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Sartorial Details
Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
Roman Style Shoulders
Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. While the heavily structured, military-inspired suits with strong shoulders and stiff canvassing were fitting of English nobles, the staid style was not an adequate reflection of the Italian way of life. As Italian tailoring grew into its own, though, different styles began to develop. In Naples unstructured whimsical Neapolitan suiting took hold. In Rome, where Brioni was born, the style evolved more subtly. The structured British style was made more voluminous, body conscious, and free-flowing without losing too much of the signature Saville Row shape.
Handmade Buttonhole
Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.
Two-Button Closure
The jacket has a two-button closure which keeps the profile neat.
Patch Pocket
Patch pockets, with their rugged functionality, were unsurprisingly adopted by the military for both shirts and jackets.
Darts
The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Horn Buttons
Horn buttons are prized for their quality. They are made with the finest genuine horn material, improving the appearance of the suit. And because they are so strong, you don't have to worry about them cracking or breaking.
Bellows Patch Pocket
The specific term for this pocket style is a "bellows patch pocket," which is a flapped patch pocket that vertically opens and features expansion pleats on the sides resembling an accordion. Another common name for this type of pocket is an "accordion pocket."
size
54 IT / 44 US / Extra Large
