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Brioni Navy Double Breasted Gold-Button "Monaco" Blazer Jacket

48 IT / 38 US / Medium

Sale price€348 Regular price€4.700
DISCOVER THE
FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Discover the

Sartorial Details

FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

Roman Style Shoulders

Characterised by a clean, strong silhouette, the Roman style has its origins in the military and equestrian style on Savile Row. While the heavily structured, military-inspired suits with strong shoulders and stiff canvassing were fitting of English nobles, the staid style was not an adequate reflection of the Italian way of life. As Italian tailoring grew into its own, though, different styles began to develop. In Naples unstructured whimsical Neapolitan suiting took hold. In Rome, where Brioni was born, the style evolved more subtly. The structured British style was made more voluminous, body conscious, and free-flowing without losing too much of the signature Saville Row shape.

Handmade Buttonhole

Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.

Brioni Navy Double Breasted Gold-Button "Monaco" Blazer Jacket

Double Breasted Closure

Contrary to popular belief, the double-breasted jacket originated as casual wear in the early 19th century, also known as the reefer jacket. It was considered very casual and was worn by people at sporting and national events.

Patch Pocket

Patch pockets, with their rugged functionality, were unsurprisingly adopted by the military for both shirts and jackets.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Brioni Navy Double Breasted Gold-Button "Monaco" Blazer Jacket

Buttons and Buttonholes

Throughout history, certain suit jackets have been adorned with golden buttons, which serve both decorative and symbolic purposes. The use of golden buttons can be traced back to the military and naval uniforms of the 18th and 19th centuries. In those times, officers and high-ranking individuals displayed their status and wealth through the incorporation of gold accents.

Flap Pockets

This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.

Brioni Navy Double Breasted Gold-Button "Monaco" Blazer Jacket

size

48 IT / 38 US / Medium

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