Corneliani Black Wool & Silk Striped Tuxedo

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

Roped Shoulders

A roped shoulder - or sleeve - head describes the bumped shape or ridge of the sleeve’s attachment to the shoulder. The higher it is, the more imposing the shoulder line appears. This can often be found in iconic British tailoring.

Handmade Buttonhole

Handmade buttonholes are made using a chain of knotted loops called purl stitches that make them strong and visually distinctive. It takes about five seconds to sew a regular buttonhole with a machine – a single handmade buttonhole takes about 10 minutes to sew.

Single Button Closure

Due to their roots in traditional eveningwear styles, one-button suit jackets are frequently tailored with a longer cut compared to other suit variations. By keeping the button fastened, a well-proportioned appearance is maintained. It is crucial to always button these jackets when standing.

Chest pocket - Rounded welt pocket

Also known as ‘barchetta’ Italian for ‘little boat’, it is so named because this pocket floats on the chest gently angled upward, just like the bow of a sailboat. These pockets echo the lively roll of a lapel that carries the spring of canvas and natural wool, unlike machine-made chest pockets that have a more stamped-out, rectangular shape and less life.

Darts

The tailors adds two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Mother of Pearl Buttons

Mother of pearl buttons are iridescent buttons made from an inner layer of certain shells. Especially shells of oysters and mussels that contain nacre, the mineral substance that forms pearls. What makes these buttons so iconic is their inimitable pearly finish.

Jetted Pockets

The first jacket pockets were sewn inside the lining or seams of garments, and are called “jetted” pockets. In their simplest form, they consist of little more than a slit. Suits that are the most formal, especially tuxedos, have no flap pockets altogether to give the piece a more streamlined look.