Ermenegildo Zegna Vintage Dark Blue Wool & Cashmere Double Breasted Pinstripe Suit

Discover the Ermenegildo Zegna Vintage Dark Blue Wool and Cashmere Double Breasted Pinstripe Suit. The label reads taglio esclusivo, a designation Zegna reserved for garments produced at the highest tier of the house's tailored output, the exclusive cut signifying a standard of pattern-making and construction that separated these pieces from the mainline production and placed them in the register of the house's finest work. The suit was made in Switzerland, at the Swiss atelier through which Zegna produced some of its most considered tailoring during this period, the craftsmanship carrying the precision that Swiss manufacturing brings to any process it applies itself to within the broader Zegna tradition of Italian textile sensibility. The cloth is wool and cashmere, brushed to a subtle nap that gives the dark blue ground a softness of surface and a slight variation in how it takes the light, the brushed finish preventing the double breasted's formal weight from reading as severity. The pinstripe runs through this ground in the classic configuration, the white chalk line at an interval that the 1980s understood as the correct expression of the double breasted suit's authority at its peak.

The configuration of the suit is unmistakably of its decade. The double breasted button closure sits low along the belly, the stance dropping well below where a contemporary suit would fasten, a placement that was the defining proportion of Milanese power dressing in the 1980s and that gave the suit's front its characteristic long-lapelled, wide-chested silhouette, the peak lapels sweeping to a high gorge and rolling to that low button point in a single uninterrupted arc that no subsequent decade has quite replicated or quite wanted to. Wide peak lapels at this scale and in this configuration are not a detail but a statement about what a suit should look like when it means business in the terms of that era, the Milanese understanding of the double breasted as an instrument of professional authority expressed without hesitation. Flap pockets sit at the hips. The trousers are cut straight and wide with a double pleat at the rise, the generous leg falling cleanly from the pleat to the hem in the manner of the period, the silhouette wide and unbroken in a way that contemporary flat-front tailoring has moved entirely away from and that vintage dressers have come to understand as one of the things the 1980s did correctly.

Ermenegildo Zegna in this period made suits for the men who ran things in Milan. The taglio esclusivo double breasted pinstripe in dark blue wool and cashmere, made in Switzerland, is a direct transmission from that moment.

Composition: 90% Wool / 10% Cashmere

Color: Dark Blue (Undertone) & Light Blue (Pinstripe)

Pattern: Pinstripe

See how we measure our sartorial items

Fit: Vintage

Jacket:

Shoulder to Shoulder: 49 cm / 19,3 Inch

Chest: 55 cm / 21,7 Inch

Waist: 53 cm / 20,9 Inch

Center Back (excluding collar): 78 cm / 30,7 Inch

Sleeve Length (inseam): 42 cm / 16,5 Inch

Trousers:

Waist: 42 cm / 16,5 Inch

Thigh: 36 cm / 14,2 Inch

Inseam Length: 80,5 cm / 31,7 Inch

Total Length: 107 cm / 42,1 Inch

Leg Opening: 23,5 cm / 9,3 Inch

Discover the customization possibilities by visiting our tailor alteration guide

Zegna was founded in 1910 in Trivero, Italy by a young entrepreneur called Ermenegildo - he was the youngest of Angelo Zegna’s 10 children. Angelo, a watchmaker by trade, had started weaving wool using four looms. From these humble beginnings, an 18-year-old Ermenegildo began using the looms creating quality fabrics that he described as “the most beautiful in the world”.

Shipping

• Complimentary shipping on orders over €200 (Netherlands), €500 (EU), and €1,000 (rest of world

• Orders below these thresholds are charged based on destination

• All items ship directly from Amsterdam, The Netherlands

• Customs duties and import fees outside the EU are the customer’s responsibility

Returns

EU customers have the right to withdraw within 14 days of delivery.

• Return shipping is at the customer’s expense

• Items must be returned unworn and in original condition

• Any use beyond indoor fitting may result in a diminished refund

Orders outside the European Union are exported goods and considered final sale (no returns).

Altered or tailored items are final sale.

Please review measurements and quality control comments carefully before ordering. As a small independent boutique we encourage thoughtful purchasing. For any questions, feel free to contact us before placing your order.

To maintain the beauty of this sartorial item, we recommend professional laundering and pressing.

Please note that the original size and composition labels have been removed or lost over the garment's lifespan. The stated size and composition are therefore based on our assessment and information provided by the previous owner. A remaining fabric tag confirms that the garment contains wool and cashmere.

General Note: While we inspect each item to ensure its quality, please note that minor imperfections may be present due to the preloved nature of the garments. We strive to represent every item accurately, but subtle signs of wear may sometimes go unnoticed. We appreciate your understanding and commitment to sustainable luxury.