Orazio Luciano & Ambrosi Grey Double-Breasted Fine-Wool Twill Suit
50 IT / 40 US / Large
Curator's Description
Curator's DescriptionDiscover the Orazio Luciano and Ambrosi Grey Double Breasted Fine Wool Twill Suit, a true connoisseur’s combination that brings together two of Italy’s most respected tailoring houses. The jacket, crafted by Orazio Luciano, is cut from fine grey wool twill and styled in a classic six button double breasted configuration with elegant peak lapels. Patch pockets lend a relaxed Neapolitan character, while handmade buttonholes underline the artisanal quality of the piece. A fully lined interior ensures a clean, composed drape, and the subtle doppio impuntura pick stitching, executed with perfectly matching thread, remains almost invisible, a discreet detail appreciated only upon closer inspection.
The trousers are made by Ambrosi, widely regarded among enthusiasts for some of the finest trousers produced in Naples. They feature an extended waistband and a classic double pleated front that offers both elegance and comfort. Internal buttons for suspenders reinforce the traditional sartorial approach, while the turned up hems complete the silhouette with a refined finishing touch. Together, the pairing of an Orazio Luciano jacket with Ambrosi trousers represents a meeting of two masters of Neapolitan tailoring, resulting in a suit that speaks directly to those who appreciate the finer nuances of true sartorial craftsmanship. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
Materials
MaterialsComposition: 100% Wool
Color: Grey
Pattern: Twill
Measurements
MeasurementsSee how we measure our sartorial items
Discover the customization possibilities by visiting our tailor alteration guide
Shipping
• Complimentary shipping on orders over €200 (Netherlands), €500 (EU), and €1,000 (rest of world
• Orders below these thresholds are charged based on destination
• All items ship directly from Amsterdam, The Netherlands
• Customs duties and import fees outside the EU are the customer’s responsibility
Returns
EU customers have the right to withdraw within 14 days of delivery.
• Return shipping is at the customer’s expense
• Items must be returned unworn and in original condition
• Any use beyond indoor fitting may result in a diminished refund
Orders outside the European Union are exported goods and considered final sale (no returns).
Altered or tailored items are final sale.
Please review measurements and quality control comments carefully before ordering. As a small independent boutique we encourage thoughtful purchasing. For any questions, feel free to contact us before placing your order.
General Note: While we inspect each item to ensure its quality, please note that minor imperfections may be present due to the preloved nature of the garments. We strive to represent every item accurately, but subtle signs of wear may sometimes go unnoticed. We appreciate your understanding and commitment to sustainable luxury.
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Sartorial Details
Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
La Spalla Camicia
Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.
Neapolitan Buttonhole
The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.
Double Breasted Closure
Contrary to popular belief, the double-breasted jacket originated as casual wear in the early 19th century, also known as the reefer jacket. It was considered very casual and was worn by people at sporting and national events.
Barchetta Chest Pocket
The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.
Neapolitan Darts
Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes
Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.
Patch Pocket
Patch pockets, with their rugged functionality, were unsurprisingly adopted by the military for both shirts and jackets.
the details of
the trousers
Double Pleated Front
Double-pleat trousers are all about classic elegance. They were a staple in the 1930s and 1940s, an era known for its fuller, more comfortable styles. With two pleats, these pants provide extra room, especially around the hips and thighs, making them great for formal settings. They bring to mind the sophisticated styles of Hollywood icons like Cary Grant, who wore them with effortless charm. Even though slimmer fits have become more popular, double pleats remain appealing for those who appreciate traditional tailoring and timeless style.
Extended Tab
The extended tab waistband is a classic detail that adds a touch of elegance to trousers. This style features an extra piece of fabric that extends beyond the regular waistband and fastens with a button or hook. The extended tab provides additional security and a neat finish, making it a popular choice for dress pants and tailored trousers. It creates a streamlined appearance, eliminating the need for a belt and allowing the waistband to lie flat against the body.
Turn-Up (Cuffed) Hem
The turn-up hem, or cuffed hem, is a classic style where the fabric at the bottom of the trousers is folded outward to create a visible cuff. This style originated with Edward VII in the late 19th century, who had his trousers tailored with cuffs to prevent them from getting muddy, sparking a trend among the fashionable elite. In the 1920s and 1930s, turn-ups became a symbol of wealth and sophistication, as having extra fabric was seen as a luxury. This association continued after World War II when wearing turn-ups subtly indicated affluence in an era of fabric rationing. Today, turn-up hems are a nod to their historical roots, offering a touch of classic elegance and enhancing the overall appearance of formal and tailored trousers.
size
50 IT / 40 US / Large
