Orazio Luciano Navy Wool Timeless Plain-Weave Suit
48 IT / 38 US / Medium
Curator's Description
Curator's DescriptionDiscover the Orazio Luciano suit in navy plain-weave wool, a timeless expression of Neapolitan tailoring crafted with understated confidence. The clean, open weave gives the fine wool a crisp yet lightweight character, making it an exceptionally versatile cloth for year-round wear. Tailored with broad notch lapels, the house's signature spalla camicia shoulder, a classic 2.5-button closure, and flap pockets, the jacket reflects the elegant proportions and soft construction that have become synonymous with the Neapolitan school. The accompanying trousers are finished with side adjusters and an extended button-tab waistband, reinforcing the suit's refined sartorial character. Originally retailed by The Armoury in New York, it represents a meeting of one of Naples' finest tailoring houses and one of the world's most respected menswear retailers.
Every Orazio Luciano suit is crafted entirely by hand in Naples, continuing the traditions established by the legendary Neapolitan tailor Luigi Luciano. The soft spalla camicia shoulder allows the jacket to drape naturally, while the hand-worked Neapolitan buttonhole and meticulous artisanal finishing speak to the extraordinary level of craftsmanship invested in every garment. Rather than relying on excessive structure, the suit derives its elegance from precise handwork, balanced proportions, and exceptional construction. The result is a suit that feels remarkably light and comfortable while retaining all the refinement expected of true bespoke-inspired tailoring. Timeless, versatile, and unmistakably Neapolitan, it is a superb example of artisanal Italian craftsmanship at its finest. Discover the elaborated sartorial details below.
Materials
MaterialsComposition: 100% Wool
Color: Navy
Pattern: Plain
Measurements
MeasurementsSee how we measure our sartorial items
Discover the customization possibilities by visiting our tailor alteration guide
Shipping
• Complimentary shipping on orders over €200 (Netherlands), €500 (EU), and €1,000 (rest of world
• Orders below these thresholds are charged based on destination
• All items ship directly from Amsterdam, The Netherlands
• Customs duties and import fees outside the EU are the customer’s responsibility
Returns
EU customers have the right to withdraw within 14 days of delivery.
• Return shipping is at the customer’s expense
• Items must be returned unworn and in original condition
• Any use beyond indoor fitting may result in a diminished refund
Orders outside the European Union are exported goods and considered final sale (no returns).
Altered or tailored items are final sale.
Please review measurements and quality control comments carefully before ordering. As a small independent boutique we encourage thoughtful purchasing. For any questions, feel free to contact us before placing your order.
General Note: While we inspect each item to ensure its quality, please note that minor imperfections may be present due to the preloved nature of the garments. We strive to represent every item accurately, but subtle signs of wear may sometimes go unnoticed. We appreciate your understanding and commitment to sustainable luxury.
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Sartorial Details
Full Canvas Construction
A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.
La Spalla Camicia
Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.
Neapolitan Buttonhole
The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.
2.5 Button Closure
The ‘tre bottoni stirato a due’, also known as the three rolling on two lapel style, is perhaps the most infamous characteristic of the Neapolitan style jacket. The top button and buttonhole are ornamental, so are left unbuttoned. As the lapel rolls down it elegantly folds over the top button and stops just 4 cm above the second button creating the distinct roll of the lapel the style is known for. As it is intended to remain unbuttoned, the top buttonhole is actually made inside out so the beautiful side will still be visible.
Barchetta Chest Pocket
The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.
Neapolitan Darts
Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.
Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes
Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.
Flap Pockets
This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.
the details of
the trousers
Single Pleated Front
Single-pleat trousers are a great mix of style and comfort. They became fashionable in the early 20th century and really took off after World War II. With a single pleat, these trousers offer a bit more room without losing that sharp look. They’re ideal for both formal and semi-formal occasions, providing a classic yet slightly modern appearance. Perfect for professional settings, they offer a comfortable fit while keeping things polished and elegant, balancing tradition with a touch of modern flair.
Extended Tab
The extended tab waistband is a classic detail that adds a touch of elegance to trousers. This style features an extra piece of fabric that extends beyond the regular waistband and fastens with a button or hook. The extended tab provides additional security and a neat finish, making it a popular choice for dress pants and tailored trousers. It creates a streamlined appearance, eliminating the need for a belt and allowing the waistband to lie flat against the body.
Unhemmed (Raw) Hem
An unhemmed, or raw hem, on dress trousers refers to the unfinished bottom edge, allowing the wearer to have them tailored to their preferred length.
size
48 IT / 38 US / Medium
