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Orazio Luciano Navy Fine-Wool Neapolitan Suit

52 IT / 42 US / Large

Sale price€1.498 Regular price€3.700

In stock, ready to ship
Orazio Luciano Navy Fine-Wool Neapolitan Suit
Orazio Luciano Navy Fine-Wool Neapolitan Suit Sale price€1.498 Regular price€3.700
DISCOVER THE  ↓
FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Discover the

Sartorial Details

FULL-CANVAS-CONSTRUCTION

Full Canvas Construction

A sartorial jacket - or coat - needs an interlining that will help give it shape and mold it. Canvas gives the item a tailored and crafted look. In short, it breathes life into it. Purely technical, canvas is made from either horsehair, wool, mohair or camel hair. It could also be a mix of them all, with varying thickness and weight. The canvas is stitched to the jacket, often by hand, thus making the canvas pieces 'floating' in the middle of the inner and outer cloth. This gives the jacket added flexibility. The canvas runs from the upper parts, all the way down to the end of the jacket. After you wear your canvassed suit for a while, it will begin to take your shape and look incredibly natural.

La Spalla Camicia

Spalla Camicia roughly translates to 'shirt sleeve' in Italian and is a shoulder style created and popularized by Neapolitan tailors. The name 'shirt sleeve' was so coined due to the characteristic shirring found at the sleeve's head where the fullness of the larger sleeve collapses. Rather than having the head of the sleeve turned back and stitched inside, the head is lapped under and stitched along the top.

Neapolitan Buttonhole

The buttonhole preferred by tailors in Naples, Italy. The Neapolitan is a slightly shorter and thicker style of handmade buttonhole. It has a distinct opening at the end, which opens wider than any other buttonhole.

2.5 Button Closure

The ‘tre bottoni stirato a due’, also known as the three rolling on two lapel style, is perhaps the most infamous characteristic of the Neapolitan style jacket. The top button and buttonhole are ornamental, so are left unbuttoned. As the lapel rolls down it elegantly folds over the top button and stops just 4 cm above the second button creating the distinct roll of the lapel the style is known for. As it is intended to remain unbuttoned, the top buttonhole is actually made inside out so the beautiful side will still be visible.

Barchetta Chest Pocket

The barchetta pocket is often thought to be a tailoring detail exclusively from Italy. The word “barchetta” is Italian for “little boat.” It describes how the pocket floats on the chest, gently angled upwards, like the bow of a sailboat.

Neapolitan Darts

Neapolitan master tailors add two darts - think of them as pinched seams - to ensure the jacket’s body achieves a slim silhouette. The process, called mezzo punto riprese, is done entirely by hand.

Orazio Luciano Navy Fine-Wool Neapolitan Suit

Kissing Buttons and Handmade Buttonholes

Also known as stacked buttons or waterfall buttons, kissing buttons are associated with Italian tailoring as Italian tailors make their jacket sleeve buttons in the kissing style. In this style, buttons touch each other and overlap one another. Handmade buttonholes; Even this step, apparently the simplest, is treated with an abundance of detail. Attaching the buttons is a job that requires patience and must be completed to perfection.

Flap Pockets

This was originally supposed to keep debris from getting into jacket pockets when worn in the country. Flap pockets occupy a sort of middle ground in terms of formality: they are the main choice for business suits, but they can also appear on sport coats as a testament to their casual origins.

the details of

the trousers

Flat Front

Flat-front trousers are a go-to for a modern, clean look. They became popular in the 1960s and 1970s when fashion started leaning towards simpler, more streamlined styles. Unlike pleated pants, flat fronts have no extra fabric at the waist, giving them a sleek appearance that's perfect for a slimmer silhouette. They fit right into both casual and business casual settings, making them incredibly versatile. As a result, they are a favorite for anyone looking to maintain a contemporary vibe in their wardrobe.

Side Adjusters

Side adjusters are a stylish alternative to belts, offering a clean look without the need for additional accessories. These adjusters are typically small buckles or tabs located on each side of the waistband, allowing you to tighten or loosen the trousers for a perfect fit. Popular in bespoke tailoring and high-end menswear, side adjusters provide a sleek and polished appearance. They are particularly favored in formal and semi-formal settings, as they maintain the silhouette of the trousers without the bulk of a belt.

Unhemmed (Raw) Hem

An unhemmed, or raw hem, on dress trousers refers to the unfinished bottom edge, allowing the wearer to have them tailored to their preferred length.

Orazio Luciano Navy Fine-Wool Neapolitan Suit

size

52 IT / 42 US / Large

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